Sad aris Thomasi?

That means, where is Thomas?...but my brain in English reads it as Sad Is Thomas... I'm sad writing this blog today because it will likely be the last blog I'll write from Georgia. I'll try to do a follow up when I get back to Dublin, but life may grab me by the collar and not let go for a while.

Georgia has been one of the most profound experiences of my life. In complete honesty, I do not want to leave. I love it here. The people (even the grumpy ones) are wonderful. Georgian hospitality is unrivaled anywhere in the world. The language, the food, the music, the amazing scenery and most importantly the friends I've made here. My classmates and teachers who just let me be Thomas. Shota, my friend who has walked with me almost everyday for the last 4 weeks translating and taking care of me. I will miss him the most. We recorded two songs...we're still mixing but they should be ready by Sunday when I fly. The rock and roll number is great fun and the heavy metal track is also something I'm really proud of.

I can't say goodbye right now, because I still have 3 more days...and things are swirling around my head so fast I can't really concentrate.

I could list the places I've been like St. George's White Monestary but that probably won't mean a lot to too many of you reading this...instead, I'll tell you that I have fallen even more in love with Georgia than I was when I arrived. I will be back, and very soon. Hopefully in September of 2010. I was the worst student in language class, but I suspect I've learned the most.

Thank you for reading my blog. I hope you've enjoyed it.

Gaumarjos Sakartvelo! Didi madlobaht qualaperi tvees. Shen gkakvs chemi ghuli.


Thomasi

Blogging is HARD!

I don't remember what I've written last or when. Time on the internet is a precious commodity so I can't spend too much time looking at old posts - but maybe I should so I don't repeat myself.

A few important items of note. We went to the Mt. Kazbegi region, stopping in the village of Ananuri on our way where I was able to dip my toes in the lake. Our neighbor friend Levani was there and he came to meet us which was really nice. Nothing like a mountain lake on a hot summer day...really wanted to swim but we didn't have time.

My friend Shota gave us a bottle of cha cha which is kind of like a homemade Georgian vodka and everyone was going to have just a taste but it was so good they all got locked on it! The next morning we woke at 5:45am to get a good view of Mt. Kazbegi which is usually covered in clouds. Its a good thing we did because we saw this GIANT of a mountain covered in snow and it was breathtaking. Speaking of breathtaking, we hiked up to Gorecki Cathedral which was one of the hardest climbs I've ever done...not to imply that I've done a lot of climbs! But it was HARD! This church was built in the 10th century as a pagan site and then in the 14th century it became a Christian church. This GORGEOUS church has stood on top of this mountain for 1000 years! That is crazy.

On the way home I bought a papakhi on the road side...you'll just have to wait for the photos but it matches my hair!

On Tuesday Shota and I went into the studio to record one of his rock and roll songs...its so rock and roll its actually called Rock And Roll. It turned out really good and he's mixing down the vocals now. It will be included on his second album but I'm hoping to also release it on line as a Tom Dunning & Your Boyfriend's song. We're going back into the studio on Friday or Saturday to record the heavy metal song Crazy Girl. He want's me to sing like Ozzy. I don't even know what that means!! Ha ha ha! Shota has been the best friend to me here...everyday we are hanging out and he's taking me to all the different places I want to go in Tbilisi. I will miss him a lot when I go back to Dublin. Its only 11 days now so I want to stretch it out as long as I can...I really don't want to leave and I'm already planning a return visit. My language hasn't come on as well as I'd like, but I've chosen other educational experiences here in Georgia so I'm not dissatisfied at all.

Oh, last thing...saw BRUNO at the cinema last night. Now, Sean and I saw it in Dublin and I found it hilarious and brave filmmaking. It was just as good in RUSSIAN(wtf???) with no subtitles! Laughed a lot and still found it very insightful to the phenomena of homo-hatred.

This weekend, our last excursion is to Khaketi...we'll visit Tsinandali, Telavi, Signagni and Bodbe.

Will definitely try to get at least one more blog post up before the end of the trip!

Be well,

Thomas

I'm mixing up the days...only 2 & 1/2 weeks left!

Ok, this one isn't too chronological...but here goes. Went to Batumi, Kutaisi, Gonio, Vani and some other places I don't remember. Many churches and monasteries. Saw the grave of David the Builder and jumped over it...twice. He was a massive man over two meters tall and his grave is big so you're supposed to jump over it. Swam in the Black Sea...think I told you that already...

Monday night, I went to the sulpher baths here...they were why Tbilisi was built. I took a hot spring bath in pool from the 14th century!! It was HOT!

Yesterday was mybirthday, thanks for all the good wishes. Started the day meeting my friend Shota to get my tattoo. Its beautiful...it says SIKETA ARIS SISLIERE or something like that...it means KINDNESS IS STRENGTH and its in Georgian letters around my ankle. I love it!! All my tattoos were done on special days. The first one was on my mother's 60th birthday. The second one was on the last day of my 20's and the third was on my 42nd birthday in Tbilisi!

After the tattoo, the skies opened up for the biggest thunder storm I've seen in years. The shop started to flood, the electricity went out and I couldn't get out of the shop. I was running late for school but when I got there, the department got me a cake and the staff and the other international students all sang happy birthday to me in Georgian. After cake we had a brilliant lecture on Traditional Georgian Folk Music. Then we had study time as we do everyday from about 4 - 6pm. I often skip it because I am a very bad student. Anyway, I stayed and afterwards, we all went for Japanese sushi for my birthday dinner followed by a few hours in an American-styled pub with a live band that had a penchant for Hotel California by the Eagles. Love it, but three times is a bit much.

Today I met up with my friends Salome and Buka for dinner. We had traditional khachapuri, kababi and khinkhali. I really love Georgian food and its starting to show! Yikes!!!

So many days with no blogging!

I have been sooooo busy I can't even get my blog updated. I know I need to fill in a lot from the past 9 days, but just a quick post now as my teacher is waiting for me to begin today's lessons.

On Saturday we headed to the west of Georgia...it is so beautiful! Dzalian lamazi! (Very beautiful!) I achieved a long held goal to swim in the Black Sea and it was great. On Sunday we were hosted for lunch in Gonio fortress by the Prime Minister of Adjara. Adjara is the southwestern most region of Georgia and has its own strong 'national' identity. Not exactly a breakaway region like Abkhazia and South Ossetia, more a friendly brother that just wants his own bedroom. I also saw the grave (symbolic?) of the Apostle Matthias. This is the apostle that replaced St. Judas.

Ok, have to go but I'm having the most amazing time and this is a wonderful experience. Tomorrow we go for Japanese sushi for my birthday and next week I'll be recording with a musician here who has invited me to sing one of his songs! I think its going to be heavy metal...sure, why not!

May you walk under rainbows,

Thomas

"Sorry, I don't do verbs!"

First week of school is over and I've just about survived. 4 more to go. Seriously thought about dropping out this week as I'm the worst student on the course...I've never actually learned HOW to learn a language so I don't really know what I'm doing.

Anyway, the school are making some modifications for my 'special needs!' Ha ha ha!

I feel like I'm at an educational summer camp and not really having the vacation time I want...but I knew that didn't I?

Today we went to Mtsketa, the first and ancient capital of Georgia. Visited some important churches and monastaries.

Oh, and I had a visit from kuchis ashliloba this week...I won't go into the gorey details but I had to stay home from school on Thursday.

I'm off to bed now, sorry for the short post.

Going to see the band 33a tomorrow at Vakesparki! 4th row center!! Finally, some live music. The rock scene here shuts down for July and August and moves to Batumi, the seaside resort town. :-( I'm going with a friend from Facebook, Shota....he's a musician and I've played his songs on HOOTRadio.

More later.

Love from Tbilisi!

They killed a sheep?? FOR ME???

Sunday was an incredible day for me. I travelled to the outskirts of town to visit with my friend Z's family. Z is in Ireland and a dear friend. I arrived at the apartment block and was met by Z's brother who took me upstairs to meet the family. 5 GENERATIONS were there! Z's grandfather, his father and mother and aunt, his brother and his brother's wife and children, his sister, his daughter and her husband and child. I've never been in the same room with 5 generations of the same family in my life! It was amazing. We sat down for a proper Georgian supra and the food came flying out of the kitchen. The men at one end of the table eating, drinking and toasting and the women at the other, nibbling. The feminist in me struggles sometimes, but today I was the guest of honour and I sat in Z's chair between his father and brother. His brother told me they killed a sheep today for the dinner. Poor sheep. Z's dad was the tamada and when he toasted me I started crying...I didn't understand more than 5 words but he was so expressive I knew what he was saying and I was really touched by this. We hooked up the Skype and got Z and his family in Ireland on the cam. The family started singing in 17 part harmony or so it sounded like. I started crying my eyes out. I looked over to the computer and I could see Z was crying too...we all wished he could have been with us...but it was not to be...not now.

Monday, started school. Everyone is an academician (or seems to be) aside from me. I'm learning Georgian for personal reasons and as I've never learned a language before I don't know HOW to learn a language. I thought it was just vocabulary and spelling but its really all about the grammar and by Tuesday, the 2nd day, I had fallen behind and had to ask for special support. How embarrassing! I'm going to give this my best shot...but I'm a little depressed realizing I don't have a clue about what I'm doing.

Tonight we say goodbye to sweet George, the son of our host family. He has been so helpful and is a truly wonderful guy. He leaves tonight for a clinic in the Ukraine for some treatment for an injury sustained in a car accident. Your prayers, positive thoughts and meditations are most welcome for his well being and successful treatment. We will be gone when he comes home so it will be a while before I see him again. :-( What a day!

Tomorrow is day 3 in school of 25 days. Wish me luck...or wish me some smarts!

More later...

Oh, Katie Melua who I don't really like is in town but she's sold out so we can't see her. It would have been cool to see her in her native Georgia.

Third time's a charm???

Stupid computer/Internet!!!!

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr!

Just wasted an hour and my blogs aren't publishing...don't know why.

In a nutshell.

Sad to leave Armenia.
Got to Georgia safely.
Staying with a lovely family, Mzia and Zaal and their son George. Two nephews from next door helping everyday. Dato and Levani. They're great!!
8 students in the programme. 4 from Turkey, 1 from Poland, 1 from Japan, 1 from Wales and myself from USA/Ireland. 2 women, 6 men.
Sharing family with Russ from Wales and Pshemak from Poland.
Classes start tomorrow morning.
Oh, was interviewed by some news crew after going on a water ride at the amusement park.
Met with friends and family of friends. Food is great, weather is HOT.
Hoping this works this time. Otherwise, going to throw the blog out the window!

The lost blog entry...

Are you married? Vhy not?

Armenia changes my mind!

There is so much going on in my head about this country I don't know where to begin. Yerevan is a great city of crumbling beauty. Euro classicism, Soviet majesty, Thai poverty and American economic class divides all rolled up into one with its very own social norms about family, gender roles and friendship. I actually love their conservativism...its kind of romantic, though I'm sure the oppressed minorities here would disagree.

The Villa Delenda folks (remember in my last post I said I would tell you more about them) have been great and I highly recommend this B&B if you are interested in tourism for community development. A gorgeous historic house from Yerevan's 'Belle Epoque' period that hopefully will not be torn down to make a shopping mall! Did I spell Belle Epoque wrong?

Yesterday was a very important day. Started out visiting the Armenian Genocide Museum. Had to wait an hour outside in the hot sun before I could go in because the President of Cyprus was there with his wife and entourage. Got to see him and everything, that was cool. The museum was excellent with more documentation than anyone could ever need to verify the Ottoman Empire's crimes against the Armenians.

Then I visited the National Art Gallery and got to view some European and Russian classics by the masters Botecelli, Tintoretto and Chagall. Then there were 4 floors of Armenian art which were all wonderful!

I met with my friend Nasses and an English speaking friend of his named Roland. I met Nasses and his father Hamlet in Venice 2007 on a trip to the Island of San Lazzarro delgi Armeni. I texted them in April to say I was coming and would like to see them for a cup of coffee. Well, my friend...these Armenians have set a new standard for hospitality! We went for an iced coffee and then to meet Hamlet at his friend's art studio. His friend Armand hosted us for a traditional barbecue of khoravats which is barbecued pork. OH LORDY! This stuff is GOOD!!! Hamlet is member of Armenia's artistic elite. He has been commissioned by local authorities to sculpt Anton Chekov, the Catholicos, Lenin and many other important people as well as various symbolic art installations. The Italian government even commissioned him for a work! Ok, so we are eating and talking and laughing and they're drinking vodka and we started at 3pm and at 11 I finally left and we were all so sad!!! It was a rare opportunity for me to be in male only space but wonderful none the less! I was actually sat next to Hagop Hagopian, who has been designated by the state as The People's Artist. He's considered to be the greatest living Armenian painter. Many other artists came over to meet me during the evening and it was an absolutely amazing day!

Today, I left the capital to meet my sponsored child, Melik. It was such an amazing thing come face to face with this beautiful child after writing to him for almost 3 years. Of course, I started crying as soon as he smiled at me but after a few minutes I regained my composure and we had a great visit with his mother, father and sister. After two hours we said goodbye and again it was very emotional...for me! Ha ha ha! I had to explain through the interpreter that I wasn't sad.

Now, I am in the town of Dilijan and its like Colorado here.

Tomorrow, I arrive in Georgia and the vacation ends and the work begins!

Now, where were we? Ah yes, YEREVAN, ARMENIA!

Another wonderfully strange day here in the capital. After following the Wimbledon Final (HOW AMAZING WAS THAT GAME??? What champions those two are!!), I went out for an iced coffee. There are no 'happy' bars in Yerevan...only friendly places for happy people. Met two Iranian guys in town last night, one was happy, the other was only half happy if you know what I mean. They both spoke Farsi which was cool and I was able to impress them when I guessed the year they were born using the Persian calendar. Thomas: Ahmed, I think you were born in 1384! Ahmed: NO! I wasn't born until 1388, are you saying I look old?

Hot. Lovely as they were, I ditched both of them for the waiter Mato. 22, eyebrows like the Sherwood Forest and a gold tooth! I was helpless...

This morning I had to switch hotels from the luxiourious Golden Tulip Hotel Yerevan to the more earthy Villa Delenda. More on them later, but I love love love them! They took an old mansion, use some of it for the Italian-Armenia Counsel and the other half is a socially conscious B&B benefiting a charity working with orphans from the earthquakes here. The kids in the art school make ceramic arts to sell in the shop next to the breakfast room. Its gorgeous stuff too.

Was collected by Miro and Lusine, friends of a friend in Dublin, who took me to an outdoor cafe for an iced coffee and I got to see a group of men (the groups here are always either men or women) buying passports to get them somewhere. It was quite normal and open...very strange. We then took a trip to Holy Etchmiadzin. This is the seat of the Armenian Orthodox Church and the Catholicos lives there. Its like their Vatican only without the money. Armenia, being the first country to adopt Christianity as their state religion have some strong customs and churches are not only everywhere, they're also being built everywhere too.

I haven't found my way back to the B&B because the street its on isn't on any of my maps. Yeznik Koghbatsi is the street, but the street signs are no in English, they are in Armenia...which I don't read. I asked two officers of the law to assist me but they didn't know either. Bummer. Alas, a happy person popped out of a restaurant door to give us a map with my street on it. So now, its off to finally try some proper Armenian food for dinner (its 8pm right now) and then find the B&B.

I wish I would learned at least how to recognize my name in Armenian because all of the churches have the 12 apostles in big presentation but I couldn't tell which one was Thomas...something I always enjoy doing.

Last thing...I laid my eyes on biblical Mount Ararat today. Did anyone else other than my brother Danny and I see "In Search of Noah's Ark" in the 70's? Mount Ararat has been in my psyche for about 30 years now and to see it today...well it was just a lovely thing.

Now, I'm off for some proper Armenian barbecued pork! Oh, the apricots are in season and I've had 5 today. No mess and delicious! Highly recommened.

First day in Armenia!

They have blueberry gum here! ...and its really hot here too. Even the older women are only wearing a piece of Kleenex. But they are gorgeous! The people here are all gorgeous. The men in particular, are MEN. I would not mess with these dudes...they don't do metrosexual here! Forgot the sunblock but after I got a little red I went and bought some. I also bought a carpet...I have been wanting an Armenian rug since I was on Glenlake and I got one from the 1930s for song. Its beautiful and has the Armenian symbol for freedom on it. I am currently trying to find out how to watch Roger Federer and Andy Roddick (Who is cuter? Its gay porn tennis at its best!) in the Wimbeldon Final today. Might be tricky to find a pub in Yerevan showing the match but I am going to try! I will let you know how I get on. Time for some food!

Almost midnight on the night before I leave for over 6 weeks. What am I doing?? Sitting making a blog. Jane and Seán both said I had to do it. This 'event' seems like no better time. Must finish packing. I'll be in Armenia on Sunday morning. Armenia! Unbelievable...